The first row of vines were barely in the ground when the neighbors began lining up to lean on their shovels and scoff.

Grapes in Anderson Valley? Nobody could make it work, they insisted. The naysayers grew so vocal that Dr. Donald Edmeades dragged some old redwood planks out from behind the barn, found some red paint, and christened his vineyard with a sign out on Highway 128: "Edmeades' Folly." "When we first planted up there, people said we were nuts," said Deron Edmeades, son of the Pasadena cardiologist who founded the winery and vineyards. Nearly four decades later, nobody is laughing at Anderson Valley wines.