Central Coast Wine Review - Toucan Wines 2010 Carignane, Evangelho Vineyards

Central Coast Wine Review - Toucan Wines 2010 Carignane, Evangelho Vineyards

Sun, 11/15/2020 - 11:00 -- johnk

Toucan Wines 2010 Carignane – Evangelho Vineyard, Contra Costa County, CA

Carignane also spelled Carignan is a black-skinned wine grape variety commonly found along the Mediterranean cost primarily in Northern Spain and in France. This grape is commonly used in blending with the more well-known Grenache, Syrah, or Mourvèdre to produce some delightful wines. However, some wonderful Carignane wine grapes grow in the Evangelho Vineyard located in Contra Costa County here in California and is the last, and only vineyard in Antioch.  There are other dry-farmed, ancient vineyards throughout the country. However, this remaining vineyard offers a special piece of Antioch history with its vines were planted in 1890 and still feeds into the current wine-making industry in California.  

Carignane prefers warm, dry climates when the grape can express high tannins, acid, and color. This makes it an excellent addition to red wine blends that have plenty of aroma and flavor but lack body and depth of color. Carignane is only rarely made as a varietal wine, but the best examples can show characteristics of dark and black fruits, pepper, licorice, and spicy and savory accents. Carignane is typically a fruity wine, with flavors like cranberry, strawberry and raspberry detectable on the palate. The more subtle floral notes contain hints of rose petal and violet. However, some wonderful Carignane wine grapes grow in the Evangelho Vineyard located in Contra Costa County here in California. For some years Doug Timewell has produced wine from this fruit that has backbone and is sure to delight your palate. Perhaps of greatest importance is that Evangelho Vineyard is the last, and only vineyard in Antioch.  There are other dry-farmed, ancient vineyards throughout the country. However, this remaining vineyard offers a special piece of Antioch history and feeds into the current wine-making industry in California.  There are several benefits from using these wine grapes. First, rooted vines have a concentration and purity that does not exist in the hybrid rootstock. Second, after a major phylloxera outbreak in the 1800s, there are very few vineyards that are own-rooted vines that remain. These vines are somewhat of a phenomenon. These vines are also planted in very sandy soil, which is typically not ideal for grapes. However, even in summer temperatures that reach over 100 degrees, these vines produce healthy crops without ever watering the vineyards. The vines are buried into the sandy soil 40 feet deep and get their water source and nutrition naturally under the ground.

Carignane prefers warm, dry climates when the grape can express high tannins, acid, and color. This makes it an excellent addition to red wine blends that have plenty of aroma and flavor but lack body and depth of color. Carignane is only rarely made as a varietal wine, but the best examples can show characteristics of dark and black fruits, pepper, licorice, and spicy and savory accents. Carignane is typically a fruity wine, with flavors like cranberry, strawberry and raspberry detectable on the palate. The more subtle floral notes contain hints of rose petal and violet. So let me introduce Toucan Wines and their 2010 Carignane.

So what do we have in the glass with this wine?

Toucan Wines 2010 Carignane – Evangelho Vineyard, Contra Costa County, CA

Different methods of processing this wine produce different aromas. For instance, carbonic maceration, in which whole grapes are fermented without the typical crushing method, produces lower tannins and higher fruit notes. Because the tannins are found in the skin, the whole-fruit nature of carbonic maceration does not allow them to be fully released. Due to the yeasts present during this stage, carbonic maceration often produces aromas of banana, bubblegum and even cotton candy. However, if you were to taste Carignane that had been aged in a light oak barrel, you would likely notice vanilla, fragrant sweet wood and even coconut on the nose. Heavy oak would impart even more dramatic scents, such as smoke, anise and even tar. 

Toucan Wines 2010 Old Vine Carignane was crushed the same day of harvest, crushed, cold-soaked the must for 7 days before the natural yeast took hold. The wine slowly fermented and was pressed into a combination of mostly new French and Hungarian barrels. After 22 months in the barrels, and a total of three rackings the wine was hand-bottled unfined and unfiltered.

Last time I enjoyed this wine was a little over 5 years ago. In the glass it is a beautiful clear ruby color, solid in appearance from its core to the rim where it lightens in color. No oxidation.  The first time I tasted Toucan Carignane it was very bold, lots of backbone and you just really needed a few hours for the wine to open nicely.  Now this 10-year-old wine has mellowed. I was a bit disappointed, not in the wine, but my own estimations of what this wine would taste like 5 years later. Again, the wine was not a disappointment, it simply changed from the dark plum with a hint of black pepper that I remember from years ago, to more of cranberry and a hint of strawberry on the palate and just a hint of violets on the nose. I usually am not a fan of wines that are 16% ABV personally, however after about 45 minutes to an hour the alcohol tamed on the nose and the bouquet and the taste were very enjoyable. Even at 16% the wine has become more supple and silky. This wine would pair well with a good meat-lovers pizza, venison, or just about any beef coming of the grill.  I hope you enjoyed our little share of this California gem.

Small by any standard, Toucan Winery was a micro-winery always had focus on quality - it was Toucan's limited production and attention to details that set winemaker Doug Timewell’s wines apart. Toucan Wines was Doug’s micro-winery and vineyard hidden in the Arroyo Grande Valley foothills. There, he hand-crafted, estate grown premium Zinfandel and Petite Sirah wines, as well as old vine Carignane grown in the Evangelho Vineyard.  I was so pleased to be able to get one of the last cases of Toucan Wines 2011 Old Vine Carignane and another case of the 2013 Reserve Cuvee which was the winery’s final release which is a blend of the Estate Zinfandel, Old Vine Carignane, and Estate Petite Sirah. Toucan Wines and Doug Timewell will be missed but not forgotten. I have enjoyed my exchanges with Doug over the years and I wish him the best in his new chapter in lifel

Doug, thank you for support through the years. I hope our paths cross in the future.

Sincerly, 

John Krause - California Corks.

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