Discovering a Hidden Gem

A lifelong passion for wine, combined with a keen interest in mountain geology, first brought Bill and Bonnie Kehret to the Fair Play region of the Sierra Foothills in the early 2000s. Amidst building a successful high-tech company in Silicon Valley and traveling globally for business, the couple became regular visitors to El Dorado County, indulging in low-key wine getaways.

In a fortunate twist of fate, the old Mt. Aukum winery came up for sale just as Bill was preparing to retire from the company he had dedicated nearly 30 years to building from the ground up. Intrigued by the potential of the microclimate atop Mt. Aukum, the well-drained granite soil, and the breathtaking views from the winery, Bill and Bonnie purchased the property in 2018. They envisioned transforming the site into a world-class winery that would showcase the unique characteristics of the region.

The following year was dedicated to a complete renovation of the facility and the installation of state-of-the-art winemaking equipment and technology. With a small, dedicated team, they transformed the site into a premier winemaking facility and began the process of renewing and expanding the estate vineyards.

In April 2019, the newly renovated tasting room at Kehret Vineyards reopened its doors. After much anticipation, the first wines from Kehret Vineyards were released in October 2019. The next crucial step in their journey to becoming a world-class winery was to find the right winemaker to lead their vision.

Enter Steve Leveque

In 2020, Steve Leveque joined the Kehret Vineyards team as the Master Winemaker. He is reshaping winemaking in the Fair Play region, bringing with him a rich history of viticulture and world-class winemaking techniques. Steve’s impressive resume has established him as one of California’s most renowned winemakers.

Born and raised in Napa Valley, Steve has built a reputation for crafting wines that embody the purity and identity of their vineyards. His experience includes prestigious positions at notable wineries such as HALL, Chalk Hill, Opus One, and Mondavi.

In addition to being a master winemaker, Steve is also a skilled viticulturist, spending significant time overseeing vineyard operations to produce exceptional grapes of unparalleled quality. He honed his winemaking skills during a decade-long tenure at Robert Mondavi Winery and absorbed innovative ideas from leading viticulture research and visionary collaborators, including the renowned Bordeaux consultant Michel Rolland. Later, as the executive vice president and winemaker at Chalk Hill Estate Winery in Sonoma, he crafted an award-winning portfolio of small-lot Bordeaux varietals and Chardonnay. Steve then became the head winemaker for HALL Wines in Napa, as well as their partners WALT and BACA. Under his guidance, over 200 of his wines received ratings of 90 points and above during his 11-year tenure.

Steve has earned three 100-point scores from Wine Advocate, two from Jeb Dunnuck, and was recognized with the #2 Wine in the World from Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines of 2011. More than 80 of his wines have been rated between 95 and 99 points by elite wine publications. This success is the result of years of experience marked by risk-taking, experimentation, collaboration, and an unwavering commitment to excellence.

Steve’s winemaking philosophy begins in the vineyard. To truly tell the vineyard's story and create balanced wines, he emphasizes the importance of bold flavors. Every aspect of vineyard farming is crucial; timing is everything. Each vintage presents its own unique challenges, and vineyard operations must align with the growing season's influences. Decisions about shoot removal, hedging, and crop thinning all carry significant consequences.

For Steve, achieving a harmonious balance between vine vigor and crop is essential. He believes that cultivating low-vigor vines with low yields allows each cluster to ripen perfectly. This approach ensures that each grape cluster can develop fully, allowing for optimal ripening of sugar, tannins, texture, and flavor. Canopy management is another critical component of this process.

Numerous factors contribute to vineyard expression and balance. Once harvested, a winemaker's role is to honor that expression, employing gentle and precise techniques. Ultimately, to maintain vineyard expression and balance, winemaking must consistently respect and celebrate what the vineyard offers.

The story of Relic is fundamentally the story of Mike Hirby and Schatzi Throckmorton. Their paths crossed in Napa Valley in 2000: Mike had recently relocated to Calistoga after managing the wine program at the innovative restaurant Primitivo in Colorado Springs for two years. His interest in wine had begun during his senior year at Colorado College, and his time at Primitivo intensified his passion for winemaking. Schatzi had arrived in the area the year before, inspired by her great uncle to take a gap year between her studies in African History at Northwestern University and a graduate program at Cambridge. Both were employed at Behrens & Hitchcock Winery—Mike working in the cellar and Schatzi in the office. Through numerous shared meals and wine tastings at Behrens, they discovered a mutual appreciation for similar wine styles. The influence of the Behrens/Drinkward/Hitchcock team was crucial; their vibrant, passionate environment provided the backdrop for the emergence of Relic. Discussions about cherished wines, disliked wines, and fascinating techniques fueled their inspiration, leading them to adopt methods like native yeast fermentation, whole-cluster fermentation, and extended lees aging. These techniques laid the foundation for Relic.

With the support of friends, Mike was introduced to two growers with exceptional vineyards, securing a few tons of Pinot Noir for the 2001 harvest. While still working as the sole employees at Behrens & Hitchcock, they were given the opportunity to produce their first wines with a strict adherence to their ideals: native yeast, native malo, no additions of water or acid, and direct barrel aging. Thus, Relic was born. The couple married in 2005, and Relic continues to be managed with a blend of their individual and shared responsibilities, with Schatzi overseeing the business side and Mike focusing on winemaking, though their roles often overlap.

Growing an Idea

Mike left Behrens in 2002 to become the winemaker at Realm Cellars, while Schatzi remained as the Business Manager at Behrens Family Winery. They were fortunate to produce their wines at Behrens for eight years, during which Relic grew steadily and intentionally, with the aim of remaining an independent winery free from financial partners. This independence allowed them the creative freedom to make bold, uncompromising decisions in winemaking, such as declassifying wines at a financial loss or creating new cuvées based on passion rather than profit. They expanded their production to include Syrah in 2003, which garnered acclaim from a major wine publication, establishing their reputation. Since 2007, their Rhone varietal program has expanded to include heritage varietals from Napa Valley, reflecting their commitment to preserving traditional winemaking practices.

The Fire

In the midst of the 2005 harvest, Mike was at the winery handling evening cap management when he received a distressing call about a devastating fire at the case goods warehouse on Mare Island, south of Napa. The shock was immediate, but there was little they could do but focus on the wines until morning. The following day revealed the extent of the damage: Relic had lost its library and half of its 2004 vintage, which had been shipped a month earlier. This disaster served as a stark reminder of the limitations of their insurance and the severity of their loss. Faced with the choice to either continue their small-scale project or fully commit to making Relic their primary endeavor, they chose the latter. Fifteen years later, they continue to thrive, driven by their dedication and resilience.

You definitely need reservations for this place as it's quite small and off the beaten path. Hopefully next time we visit we'll be able to meet Julie the owner, although our server (whose name escapes me at the moment) was outstanding, very friendly and fun.

The people are always so friendly here. Wines are always great. The wine staff is very open to teach you about wine. They're not pretentious as a lot of the wineries are up in Napa. Quit refreshing. Located in picturesque St. Helena, Merryvale’s historic building was the first winery built in the Napa Valley after the repeal of Prohibition in 1933, and has become a favorite destination for visitors to the valley. Merryvale Vineyards inviting cellar is ideally located in the heart of Napa Valley within easy walking distance of shopping in downtown St. Helena, across from the casual eatery Gott's Roadside, and next door to world-famous Tra Vigne restaurant.