Jeff Smith is pure Napa Valley. He’s a husky, happy-sized guy with a big smile, wavy hair and a generously salted beard. He wears worn blue jeans and boots and slouches back on the couch cushions like a man whose been working outside all day.

Jeff is the owner of Hourglass, whose Napa Valley reds have a cult-like following and an impressive presence on high-end restaurant lists.