Smith Madrone makes only three wines: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Riesling. In each case, the wine's mountain roots shine through. The chardonnay is leaner and tighter than most examples from the area, despite full ML and all new oak. This tightly structured wine needs time, and is built for it. The current release Cabernet is the 2006...how's that for integrity? The Smith brothers hold back their Cabs until they feel they're ready. While not a tannic monster, this wine has strong bones, to be sure, and needs time as well, though it wouldn't be out of place with a hearty red meat dish right now.